PAUL CLEMENTS investigates some of Rome’s best value trattorias while son Daniel explores the city’s historic sights...

THE gastronomic map of Rome is peppered with several thousand restaurants. My challenge was to find five authentic and well priced ones during our stay.

With some recommendations from friends, along with a copy of Fodor’s Rome, we set about an exploration of menus in locations away from the tourist traps. My quest was to avoid microwaved ravioli, and sample traditional Roman food but a stroll around presents a tyranny of endless choice: ristorante, pizzeria, trattoria, taverna and osteria are all vying for business. Outdoor tables on pavements are packed with food-lovers swirling forks of pasta while cheery waiters wave menus at potential customers.

Our first choice, Suburra (Via Urbana 67) is recommended from a friend who had been two years ago. You know a place has style when, before you have even sat down, the waiter brings a basket of bread with grissini sticks and asks what you would like to drink. What is more unusual though is the instruction on the cover of the menu: “Dear customers – L’Osteria della Suburra together with the waiters does not accept tips. Your satisfaction will be our best reward.”

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