MY QUEST for The Ulster Restaurant with the Best View as a new contender in Dundrum that rivals Portaferry's Exploris Café, Enniskillen's Killyhevlin Hotel and the Castle Espie Tearoom for the finest panorama from the plate. Dundrum's Round Tower restaurant, just visible on the shoreline off the Newcastle, has a trewly spectacular vista of the Mournes and the teeming wildlife of the Inner Bay. What's more, the quality of the food and service has the edge on the other current contenders,so this is my top choice for those who seek a feast for the eye as well as the palate.

There's a cosy bar and a waterside terrace for alfresco dining in summer, but it's the circular restaurant on the upper floor that offers the 180 degree panorama which draws diners from afar."Most of our customers ask to have a window table, especially if it's their first visit," says the highly

professional and personable manageress Christine Toner. "Our objective is to ensure that the food and hospitality are every bit as good as the view. Thankfully, many of our guests who originally come to watch the birds in daylight are so impressed by the quality of the cuisine that they book for dinner even though the bay is in darkness!"

Since taking over this architecturally impressive building last May, owners Cathal and Nicola Kielty have put a lot of effort into making it a delightful destination for those of us who love nothing better than good, fresh local produce prepared and presented with 'fusion' flair.In fact, the mussels and oysters on the imaginative menu come from the famous beds of Dundrum Bay itself.

Enthisiastic chef Michael Curley has devised an appetising and affordable menu that has wide appeal to seafood lovers, meat-eaters and vegetarians alike.

At lunch on a recent sun-drenched Saturday we enjoyed big local mussels in a creamy mariniere sauce (£6.95) plus a perfectly pan-seared fillet of fresh Tuna on a crunchy Mediterranean salad (£6.45).The Bailey's Cream bread & butter pud and the Wild berry and apple crumble were both big and scrumptious (£3.95) so one of my most memorable local lunches for years was just over a tenner a head.

The more elaborate Dinner Menu is a great-value £17.95 ( two courses) and £21.95 (three). The superb view comes with the compliments of Mother Nature and the classy music (eg Jamie Callum) adds another note of quality to the atmosphere.

The Round Tower is at 38 Main Street, Dundrum, Reservations Tel: (028) 4375 1111. Tell Christine I promised you could have my window table!