IT proved to be quite an exploration of discovery for my husband Richard and I when we joined the inaugural Southampton sailing onboard Royal Caribbean's magnificent Legend of the Seas cruise ship recently(May 2005) - the first of the fleet to be dedicated solely to the UK market.

Not only were we literally overloaded with choices of things to do and see from the moment we stepped on board, but as this was our first cruise together, we also took time out to take in the idyllic coastlines we passed, the unspoilt beaches and ancient castles in the ports of call and the endless breathtaking natural beauty all around.

The five-day 'Hidden Shores' itinerary found us departing Southampton for Guernsey, and later Brest, to the rousing melodies of a brass band on the dockside, with all the pomp expected from any self-respecting Hyacinth Bucket. Meanwhile, on the ship, the diverse range of people onboard were already relaxing and living it up at some of the many themed bars and lounges on the ship or around the stunning seven-storey Centrum; complete with glass lifts, white marble staircases spiralling upwards, contemporary metal sculptures and plunging water fountains.

In fact, this fantastic atrium became quite a popular spot for us - boasting cafes, a library and games room, an art gallery, a compact shopping mall and the Champagne Bar spread over the various floors encircling this incredible central feature. The only downside was that everyone else was enjoying it too and at certain times it was difficult to find a seat! But, with the whole of the ship to explore, there was never a dull minute, whether we were enjoying a leisurely stroll along the deck, sipping a drink or cuppa in the sun-filled poolside solarium, relaxing in one of the deck pools, 'cheating' our way around the miniature 18-hole golf course or scaling the heights on the innovative rock climbing wall - yes you did read correctly!

The 11 decks of this spotless, soaring cruise ship, the top of which could almost look Lady Liberty in the eye, could not be faulted and they housed a plethora of leisure facilities, amenities and activities for guests of all ages and interests suitably tailored for the British market, right down to things like serving English fare, having British entertainment and listing prices in Sterling. When the sun was shining the open decks were hiving with life, while more than two-acres of glass canopies, skylights and thousands of floor-to-ceiling windows allowed us to enjoy the beautiful vistas whatever the weather.

Our ocean view cabin, or should I say 'superior balcony stateroom', was a wonderful haven to just get away and sit out and watch the world go by. Actually, to be fair, there were lots of quiet corners to be found as the 70,000 tonnes, 867ft long ship catered not only for adventurous families, but also for those who wanted to just rest and be pampered. However, it was in the evenings that this floating luxury complex truly sparkled, particularly on the magical formal night when everyone onboard turned out in their posh outfits and posed for yet another round of obligatory pictures before arriving for their sitting at dinner.

And the exquisite cuisine, both at dinner and throughout the day, was wonderful. Even for a vegetarian like me there was always something to tantalise the taste buds. For a less formal meal the Windjammer Cafe was the place to be, although it could be a busy buffet at times. The elegant main dining rooms were a pleasurable experience with table-devoted, truly cosmopolitan waiters and a delightful array of international dishes from which to choose each day - all cooked with the help of an Irish chef. We even discovered a quiet little cafe on one of the higher floors around the atrium that served delicious coffees, cakes and ice-creams and, of course, like everywhere on the ship, it was only the drinks for which you had to pay.

But the night was certainly not over after dinner, it was just getting started! As the evening entertainment took on a whole different appeal including bustling bars, shows in the lavish, tiered theatre, dancing the night away in the Viking Crown Lounge or trying to hold on to your chips in the snug Casino Royale. It was unbelievable just how quickly you could wave goodbye to your money, whether you opted for Blackjack, Roulette or just the one-armed bandit machines - bandit definitely being the word!

During the five-day cruise we also managed to squeeze in some whirlwind tours of the two ports of call in picturesque St Peters Port, Guernsey and historic Brest in Brittany. Cruising to a location is a wonderful way to get there and at each destination we had meticulously organised shore excursions arranged for us. It was not until our final day, which was the 'return-at- sea' leg from Brest, that I managed to try out the state-of-the-art ShipShape Spa and a truly tranquil and luxurious experience it turned out to be. While my hair enjoyed a pampering, I discovered that the Spa offers a wide range of services from skincare and nail treatments to holistic therapies all aimed at sending you home totally de-stressed and looking your polished best.

The first port of call on our cruise was the pretty and bustling harbour town of St Peter Port on Guernsey in the Channel Islands. As the second largest of the Islands, Guernsey is still only a mere 25 miles square, but yet manages to cram in picturesque bucolic scenery, rugged coastlines, sheltered beaches, quaint towns and real old-world charm - all little more than a stones throw from the French coast. So it is no surprise that it was in the peace and tranquillity of the island that the celebrated French poet and novelist Victor Hugo wrote many of his most famous works, including Les Miserables.

However, as the only British territory to be occupied by the Germans during the Second World War, the Islands are still scarred by the coarse, concrete remnants of the defences put in place over just two years in the 1940s by their invaders. And it was some of these stark military reminders that my husband Richard and I were really keen to see - from abandoned bunkers and gun batteries to an old spitfire engine still sporting the remains of its wooden propellers.

One particular structure that impressed on us the sheer scale of the construction undertaking during the era, was Guernsey's German Underground Hospital and Munitions Store - the largest structural aide memoire of the German occupation existing in the Channel Islands - and a bleak, gloomy and crumbling edifice it turned out to be. Almost visible from the surface, this vast concrete maze is built under a low hill in the heart of the Guernsey countryside. And perhaps even more alarming is the fact that it was probably little better when it was actually in use than in its current, albeit decrepit, damp and dingy state. The hospital would have been equipped with an operating theatre, kitchen, cinema, staff quarters and wards for 500 patients. And although it is mostly empty today, the old metal beds, rusting cookers and heating plants, German signs and unfinished corridors still exude a gloomy feeling of desolation.

Close by the Guernsey Occupation Museum tells an enlightening, but often horrific story of the wartime invasion and is home to a host of exhibits and memorabilia depicting island life during the period. But our spirits were soon distracted from the dark days of the war by a unique miniature grotto set amidst the nearby countryside on the way back to the harbour and our awaiting ship's tender. We discovered that the 'Little Chapel' was single-handedly and painstakingly built in 1914 (and rebuilt several times) by a Brother Deodat of the de la Salle Brothers. A trip to Guernsey would simply not be complete without a trip to this delightful building lovingly studded in an intricate, colourful array of shells and pieces of pottery that glint magically in the sunlight.

And don't forget to nip inside its tiny interior for even more wonderment in what could be the world's smallest church. After cruising through the night we awoke on our second morning to the beautiful coastline of Brittany and the busy harbour of Brest, home to the French Atlantic fleet. The town's fascinating seafaring history soon came alive with a visit to the Brest Naval Museum situated within the stout walls of its 15th century castle and there was even time to take in some panoramic views from the ramparts that revealed a magnificent natural harbour opening out onto the Atlantic and behind a neat geometrical town complete with cobbled streets, striking bridges and a modern, cosmopolitan heart that's well worth further exploration, next time!

BY FIONA MCILWAINE BIGGINS